#45 Hello Malaysia, first stop Kuala Lumpur

After a stunningly beautiful month in the Philippines (it didn't feel like enough), Amy and I rounded it off by booking a very fancy hotel in Cebu city for our last night in the Philippines (what backpacking budget)?! We enjoyed the rooftop pool all day,  our massive double beds for a much needed sleep that night and milked the buffet breakfast for two hours the next morning before flying from Cebu airport to Manila. I said goodbye to the best travel buddy I've had and new life long friend before I headed off for my flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and she departed back to Perth, Australia. 

After nearly 12 hours of travelling I arrived in Kuala Lumpur (KL as the locals call it), Malaysia (country number 15 on my trip) and met my friend Faye in the airport. We made our way from the airport to our accommodation which would also be my first Couchsurfing experience! Couch surfing is an online community of like minded travellers or locals who offer up their couch, spare room, floor etc for free to travellers passing through. Faye is an adamant couch surfer. It's a great way to save money while traveling and also to get shown around a new city or town by the people that live there. Win win! When we pulled up to the huge apartment block just around the corner from the Petronas towers I was 
wondering if we had the right address. We arrived up at Bens apartment and he greeted us straight away with a warm welcome and a Belgian accent even though it was 11.30pm on a school night. We ended up sitting up chatting, playing pool and cooing over his beautiful cat Nana. His friend Eva from America and his Spanish housemate Cayo also joined us. Over the next few days we felt so at home, using the pool and gym that his apartment block had as well as being shown around the best places to eat in KL (the food here is amazingly delicious) and even being taken to parties by Ben. 

Me, Ben, Nana (the cat), Eva and Faye 

The famous Petronas Towers 

On our first morning, Faye and I went to the Batu caves, a limestone hill about 12km from KL. It is a holy site with temples inside and is a well known tourist attraction. We navigated the train/metro system easily across KL and made 
it to the landmark long before lunch. On the train to the caves we ended up chatting to a retired widower from California called Tim who was also heading to the caves. Tim told us after a while that his wife had recently passed away, they had planned to travel around South East Asia together so he took the plunge, coming away by himself for the first time in over forty years. He was really interesting and loved hearing about our travels too. After dodging monkeys, pigeons and other tourists at the caves and being generally a bit underwhelmed by the landmark, the three of us took a metro to central market and Chinatown. We went to a food court in Chinatown with every type of Asian cuisine you could imagine. I had a very spicy, tasty seafood Tom yum with noodles! A great first meal in Malaysia. 

Bath caves 

The next day, after a long overdue gym session (I still ache when I walk), Ben took Faye and I to meet some of his friends to play some board games in a cafe. After multiple games of UNO we went back to Bens to get ready for a party he invited to us that night in the Belgian Ambassadors house! After eight months of travelling, I felt out of my depth trying to make myself look presentable. Thankfully when we arrived most people were very friendly especially the ambassador himself, Daniele. We spent the night enjoying the free wine (and gin), really good food, salsa dancing and the swimming pool (it was a pool party after all)! Eva and Cayo also came and we met a really nice group of Canadian students who were over in KL on an internship for 6 weeks. It ended up being a late night so Sunday was not extremely productive but Faye and I went to meet three of the Canadian girls that evening from the party for some Indian food. 

Acting classy at the embassy's party 

We also took a day trip to a UNESCO world heritage site town called Melaka. The bus took about three hours each way, costing 20RN return (about €4). Melaka is known for its food, specialising in coconut shakes, chicken rice ball, Nyonya cuisine among other dishes. We got to Melaka quite early and spent the morning wandering around Jonker street which is lined with quirky souvenir shops, small cafes and restaurants. There are numerous Chinese and Hindu temples around the area which are free to enter. After trying some of the local Chinese food and a coconut nut shake (really good) we visited the temples, local churches and 

walked along the canal. There a pimped out tricycles called Trishaws zooming around covered in various paper maché cartoon characters blaring random music and covered in flowers. They definitely add to the quirkiness of Melaka. After a few hours we wandered past a place renting the tiniest electric cars so decided to rent one for twenty minutes to zip our way through the town. Faye took up driving position first and it was hilarious zooming around. We stopped to swap over only to realise that the hand brake was jammed....with cars struggling to get around our little 

green mobile I walked the few hundred yards back to the office to get some help. I managed to get two of the people from the rental place to walk back with me, clueless as to why the car wasn't working. Just as we were approaching where I had left Faye with the 'broken down' car she whizzed past in stitches, apparently we hadn't been putting the brake down to activate the hand brake (i'm blaming Faye for this one). With red faces and lots of embarrassed apologies to the rental company we headed off the get the bus back to KL.   

In our jazzy electric car pre break down 

Melaka 

On our last night in KL, Cayo took Faye and I to the main hawker food street in KL called Jalan Alor, only a twenty minute walk from the apartment. I was in food heaven! The place was bustling and lined with Indian, Chinese and Malayan street food. Colourful little dim sum dumplings and steamed buns, noodles, fruit, fried ice cream, coconut shakes, skewered meat, fish, vegetables and various rice dishes lined the long street. We found a Chinese restaurant and sat outside, we all shared a beer, Singapore noodles (sooo tasty) and spring rolls. Rounding it off with chocolate 'fried' ice cream (rolled ice cream)! I am definitely going back next time I'm KL for a dim sum binge! 

A Melaka coconut shake 

Paprika squid and chicken at Tepak Urban dining 

Jalan Alor street food 

The next morning Faye and said our goodbyes to the boys and beautiful cat Nana. We headed to the TBS bus station in a GRAB taxi and took a four hour, very windy journey to the Cameron highlands. 

Next stop: Cameron Highlands

Stayed: Couchsurfing 

Food and drink: Assam pedas (spicy paprika chicken and spicy squid with rice and vegetables) and a mango shake at Tepak urban street dining for less than £3.

Singapore noodles with chicken and shrimp at Jalan Alor (shared), £1.

Rolled chocolate ice cream at Jalan Alor, £1

Traditional curry and rice at a small Indian restaurant in Masjid Jamak, £1
Tom ham seafood noodles in Chinatown, £1.50 

#44 Camiguin island...or 'come again' as the locals say

After taking a ferry from Bohol, taking about 3.5 hours we arrived in Camiguin island. We hadn't met any other travellers going to Camiguin but I had read about it in a guide book I had picked up along the way. It described it's good hiking, waterfalls and adventure sports. We had a few days left and enough time to visit another place so we decided to take the ferry there from Bohol. 

We hadn't booked accommodation in advance but unbeknownst to us, it was a bank holiday in the Philippines. We became aware of this firstly when we got to the port in Jagna, Baohol three hours before the ferry was due to depart to be told that the ferry was full and we had to be put on a waiting list (thankfully we were number three and four on the list). We managed to make it on the ferry thankfully. 

When we arrived in Camiguin we took a tricycle from the port to Yumbing. Our lovely driver Sonny said he would bring us around until we found somewhere to stay and recommended some places. The first few were fully booked for the weekend. He then brought us to Medano resort, a family friendly basic hotel with big swimming pool backing onto the sea and views of famous White Island about a kilometre away. We immediately thought it was too expensive but enquiries anyway. The Filipino owner Rolien, a happy man in his fifties immediately welcomed us warmly, asks us where we were from. When I told him I was Irish he was quick to tell me that he was taught in school by Irish nuns and sang when Irish eyes are smiling. He told us they had a fan room available and as we were staying for four nights we negotiated the price down. 

Balcony views in Medano resort 

BBQ and beer st checkpoint 

We looked into what we wanted to do while we were there as we had three full days. We decided to rent a scooter (with Amy driving) and the next day and I was keen to hike the volcano 'Mount Hibok Hibok' which towered above behind Yumbing. On our last day we planned to take advantage of the pool and go to 'White Island' which we could see from our hotel. White Island is one of the main attractions of Camiguin. It is a natural white sand bar in the middle of the glistening sea, small engine boats chug there and back all day bringing tourists to enjoy the pristine beach. Sunset out there looked exquisite so we made that our plan for our last night. 

That evening we had traditional BBQ of meat skewers (chicken and pork for us....no intestines or pigs skin), rice and red horse beer at the very busy checkpoint restaurant which seemed to be the main point in Yumbing for people to go for food. They also had a small shop and bakery. When we returned to our room, it dawned on us why this was the only vacant room left...when we opened the door, the
stagnant heat hit us in the face. We turned the fan on, left the doors and windows open and tried to sleep which we both quickly realised had less chance of happening than Trump declaring his hair is actually not his. 

The next morning after a restless oh so clammy sleep we rented a scooter for the day from the hostel for $6. There were loads of different attractions around the island. We decided to focus on the south west side of the island first. We set off (Amy driving of course) and firstly visited the sunken cemetery. Apparently a real cemetery was originally to be found at this spot until four different eruptions from mount Vulcan caused  the cemetery to be emerged completely  underwater. The last eruption occurred in 1948. It is still possible to dive down and see the original cemetery. Now it is marked by a ladge cross a few hundred metres out to sea  from the viewpoint. After, we visited he Gui-ob church ruins, the Bura soda water springs and Tuasan falls, making our way around the island in an anti-clockwise direction. 

By lunchtime we weren't too far away from the capital of Mambajao, we went and ha ramen (noodle soup with vegetables, chicken and s boiled egg) for lunch in a local eatery. We chatted to two localme. Whom were sitting outside and when we were leaving one gave us Camiguin bananas from his home for our trek the next day. After lunch we continued driving around the island and drove the 5km up into the jungle from the main road to Katibawasan falls, my favourite site of that day. It was around 4pm so there were less people swimming below the towering 250ft high   waterfall.We went swimming, chatting to a lovely elderly couple on their holidays from a nearby region. We also kept getting asked to pose for numerous photos with other groups of teenagers and groups of friends. We joked that we had to start charging for photos. 

Posing with the locals 

The sunken cemetery 

Admiring Katibawasan falls 

Later we went to the checkpoint bakery to stock up on snacks for our hike the next day. We went in search of a local eatery to get some food, only to find another BBQ eatery...meat and rice again so! The man BBQing was keen to know where we were from, once he found out I was Irish he started asking me if I knew Conor McGregor, telling me that he was his idol. As we were leaving after our rice and meat (I was seriously craving some vegetables by this stage) there were tiny kittens huddled at the side of the road outside the restaurant. The McGregor devotee told us there were six strays and that we could take them if we wanted!  This broke my lil heart and I was seriously contemplating taking them but didn't think they (or the airlines) would take too kindly to being stuffed into my backpack. I did however ask Rolien back at our hotel if he wanted any cats....he was quick to decline my offer. When we got back to the hotel (kittenless I may add) we met our guide for the hike the next day 'Be-bot' as well as a French guy called Coco (we couldn't pronounce his real name) who was also doing the hike with us. Coco of course turned out to be a super fit trail runner back in Brittany where he was from! Be-Bot a Filipino man in his forties from the town next to Yumbing gave us a quick briefing for the next day- to bring water and snacks, wear appropriate hiking shoes and clothes. He told us the hike could take anywhere between seven and a half to nine plus hours, I could feel Amys gaze on me (she was NOT overly keen for the hike)! We had another horrendous night in our oven roasted room sweating buckets and listening to the questionable eighties hits being sung by the live band on the rooftop (it was Saturday night after all). I finally caved at about 11.30pm and went downstairs to ask Rolien if he had another fan, tears in eyes, he saw my desperation  and quickly located another fan. It didn't help and we continued to sweat the night away until our alarm went off at 4.45am (WHY DO I DO THIS)!?

Wearily we grabbed our backpack, setting off at 5am on be-bots motorbike, five minutes down the road to the bottom of Mount Hibok Hibok. The four of us (Myself, Amy, Be-Bot 

and super fit Coco) started hiking at 5.30am and set off at a pretty decent pace uphill (I was struggling to keep up). We hiked up through the jungle for nearly four hours, including a break in the old crater of the volcano which used to be a lake. 

Mount Hibok Hibok hike 

At points we literally had to scramble up rocks, clinging onto tree branches or me having be-bot pull me up via my 'good' right arm. I definitely felt I was a lot slower due to my left shoulder being more or less useless. When we finally got to the summit it was still only just after 9am! We were disappointed with the lack of view, clouds blocking it and not clearing for the half hour we were up there. Still we felt proud of our achievement, even though we were saturated with sweat from ascending up in the humidity. Little did I know that going down was going to worse. We descended down a different route, I won't say it was trail as it definitely didn't feel like one. We climbed al let vertically down rocks and mud, again using vines and tree trunks as aides. It took us almost three and a half hours to scramble down. Finally rejoicing as we reached the bottom and ending at some hot springs. 

We hiked over 11km up and down, taking seven and a half hours and leading us to slip and fall repeatedly (I've somehow managed to perfect falling on my left side, avoiding my bad shoulder but I guess putting my right side at risk). Be not told us stories of the cock fighting that is extremely popular in the Philippines, particularly on Sundays after church. He even invited coco to go with him later that day to watch it (I think it's a 'mans' Sunday activity however coco didn't seem that keen to partake. He also to,d us about 'spider fighting' but we weren't too sure if this was true and he seemed to be full of extremely sarcastic stories. After an extremely stressful and tricky descent we arrived at the other side of the volcano to the ardent hibok hibok hot springs. Amy and I went for a dip in the (thankfully) chilled water before going back to the hotel to an attempted ( it failed) nap attempt in our microwaveable heated room. 

That night we went back to checkpoint for dinner and invited coco to come along too. Portions were massive so we shared a chop suey, rice and some red horse. There was a fiesta just down the road so with coco heading back to the hotel for a nap, Amy and I ventured down. It was full of local families with a Filipino comedic act on stage. We couldn't understand a word they were saying but I'm assuming they were pretty entertaining based on the howls of laughter coming from the crowd. With little understanding what was happening we decided to head back to the rooftop of Medano for some cards and music. 

Our last day on Camiguin we spent relaxing by the pool (typically I got burnt at the end of the holiday and resembled a roasted tomato by the end of the day). We had planned to go to White Island later that evening to watch the sunset (they really are incredible here). We sauntered down to the port where the boats depart at 4.30pm only to be told by the (not so friendly) lady that the last boats come back from White Island at 5.30pm (I.e: before sunset). We almost kicked ourselves for not going out earlier that day and couldn't really justify spending 490PHP (only $10) for less than an hour on the beach. Instead we decided to sit at the small cafe/bar in medano with a beer and watch the sunset from there. Which was beautiful but much to our dismay we could watch all the boats going out and coming back from White Island, the last ones returning up until after 6pm! Whhhy!??! Anyway next time I 'come again' to Camiguin (as the locals say), White Island is on my 'to do' list. 

Next Stop: Cebu city

Stayed:  Midano island resort, $7 night for private fan room (was discounted due to multiple night stay) 

Food and drink: checkpoint is the main restaurant in Yumbing. The mains in the restaurant are huge so you can share! $2 each for chop suey, rice and red horse beer. BBQ and rice at Checkpoint. Shawarma from Alex's across the road from checkpoint ($1). Rum and red horse beer in Medano. 

One month in the Philippines

I spent a glorious month in the Philippines in April 2017. I hadn't initially planned on visiting the Philippines or South East Asia for that matter during my twelve months away however after a friend spoke to me about visiting I googled some blogs. Once I saw the photos of the pristine white beaches, turquoise blue waters, towering waterfalls and lush jungle I was convinced (although I took those 'filtered' photos with a grain of salt).

With 7,107 islands making up the Philippines and only a months visa (if you want to extend it costs) it was difficult to decide where we wanted to visit but the general main island groups on the tourist trail are: Luzon and the Visayas. When we got to the Philippines we spent one night and a day in the capital, Manila (skip it altogether if you can). When we got off the 'mainland' and away from the bustling, noisy cities I was totally blown away with the exact same picturesque perfectness from the photos I had seen! Maybe even more humbling and causing me to fall even more in love with the country was the genuine warmth, hospitality and friendliness of the people here.

Coron tricycle drivers jumping for joy for us  

Tips for the Philippines:
- Internal flights are cheap if you book ahead (at least one month). The main budget airlines are: Cebu Pacific, Philippines airlines and Air Asia.
- Jeepneys and yellow Cirus buses are public buses and cheap to take
- Always negotiate the cost of your tricycle and agree on a price before you depart. In some places we were being told it was 50PHP each when locals only pay 10PHP!
- The cheapest food is found in local eateries or on the street. You'll see multiple silver dishes lined up. The mains (usually fish, chop suey, vegetables, lumpia (spring rolls) and multiple pork dishes (adobo is a must try)) are served on small plates costing between 20-50PHP. Rice is usually 10-15PHP. Street food is generally fried and/or very sweet. BBQ meat skewers can be found in most places and consist of chicken wings, legs, heads, neck and intestines (I'm not joking), pork meat, liver among others. These usually range from 10-70PHP and you can usually get sticky rice cooked in a woven banana leaf with it. The mangoes and banana are really good and sweet. Otherwise vegetables and fruit weren't abundant so take advantage when you can.
- Also don't book rooms in advance as you can usually negotiate the prices of rooms on arrival. Double rooms can also end up being the same price, if not cheaper than dorms so good if you are in a pair or even a trio.
- Use the Grab taxi app (similar to uber). Uber is also in operation in big cities
- Get a local SIM card when you arrive
- Whilst most places have ATMs, in some places like El Nido and Coron, there are limited ATMs and they can run out of money at the end of the day. Port Barton has no ATM.
- Most people speak English
- Filipinos will ask you for your photo! We were happy to oblige and it was a great way to meet lots of the locals
- The Tanduay rum is oh so cheap and good. Red horse beer is oh so strong and cheap
- Ask around for local fiestas on the islands as there is usually one happening somewhere
- Get ready for breathtaking sunsets!


Here is my itinerary for the month in the Philippines:
Fly into Manila, the capital: 1 night in Manila.
- Stayed in Baho Kuba Hostel
To do:
- Museum of anthropology and museum of fine art (free entry)
- Rizal park
- China town for authentic Chinese food
- Sample some of the street food
- Ride a jeepney

A traditional jeepney 

How to get to Coron: Prebooked overnight 2Go travel ferry Manila to coron. Karaoke all day on the top deck...bring rum and snacks

Coron, Palawan: 3 nights in Coron.
- Stayed in coron guapos guesthouse or lagrosa hostel backpackers
To do:
- Island hopping tour B
- Rent scooters and go to the beaches and waterfalls
- Hike up mount tapyas for sunset


El Nido, Palawan: 2-3nights.
How to get there: Boat from Coron to El Nido (Can book day ahead from your hostel).
- Stayed in billabong but look around as this was a basic hostel. Melting Pot Hostel was recommended but fully booked when we were there.
To do:
- overnight island hopping tour A and C.
-  El nido beach is nice and quiet during the day for a beach day
- Rent scooters
- Go to napcam beach (voted most beautiful beach on TripAdvisor). Busy during the day but can stay there overnight and enjoy it when the crowds have left
- Early morning hike up Osmena Peak for sunrise 

El Nido beach 

Port Barton: 3nights (quiet beach town, really recommend)
How to get there: bus from El Nido to Port Barton. It takes about 1.5hrs. You can also book this through your hostel in El Nido.
- Stayed in divinagracia - private rooms or cabins. Local family owned.
To do:
- island hopping here (cheaper than el Nido and Coron)
- Kayaks to white beach
- Waterfalls
- Drinks on the beach (reggae bar for happy hour...2 rums for €1)!

Quiet Port Barton beach 

Flew from Puerto Princessa to Cebu: 1 night in Puerto Princessa
How to get there: From Port barton, take a bus to Puerto princessa (big city).
Stayed In yourspace pensione, basic, clean hostel. Not much to do in Puerto princessa.
- Good vegetarian restaurant called imas.
Flew PP to Cebu city: 1 night in Cebu city but no need to stay.

Maolboal, Cebu island: 3 nights
How to get there: Take a public Minivan or yellow public bus from Cebu city to Maolboal. (Most people stay at panagsama beach, good for snorkelling! Lots of sardines).
- White beach (not that nice)!
- Bingo at Maolboal port in town, most nights I think. So much fun! Can also go to local Karaoke after.
- Kawasan falls, must do! Either go for the day (early to avoid crowds) or do canyoning through the falls which we did with happy wanderers for 1000PHP (Get scooter and tricycle out to the falls yourself)

Kawasan falls 

Dumaguete, Negros island: 3 nights
How to get there: Take a yellow public bus from Maolboal to Bato , then take a Tricycle to the port. From here a Ferry from bato to port about 5km from dumaguete then take another tricycle or jeepney to Dumaguete town.

- stayed Harolds pension, good hostel. Really nice rooftop with good well priced food!
To do:
- Twin lakes national park. Take a public yellow bus to the first halal habal stop (ask the bus conductor to let you off there), take a motorbike (Habal Habal) from the bus stop to the entrance of Park. Its a really nice drive up: fixed price of 400PHP up and down but we negotiated with two of us on the back. Not a big hike just a 30-40 mins walk. Nice Scenery. Or if you wanted a longer hike you could go to volcano negros to hike (we didn't make it though).
- day diving or snorkelling trip to Apo island to see sea turtles and beautiful coral
OR
Go straight to Apo island and stay on the island itself. There are a few guesthouses. Food is more expensive on the island so be aware!

Snorkelling with sea turtles 

Siquijor island - my favourite!!! (2-3 nights...or longer)
How to get there: Boat from dumaguete to siquijor, only 1.5hrs. Can walk to the ferry from Harolds.
- Stayed in lazy lizard hostel, about 400m off the main road in San Juan. Newly opened, really chilled hostel. Have a cute little cabin for two people or dorm. Also JJ backpackers is popular but need to book ahead.
To do:
- Lots of fiestas in siquijor- ask around
- Paliton beach for snorkelling and sunset
- Rent motorbikes for time there,beautiful waterfalls (cambugahay falls), caves, lookouts, secret beach....so amazing but difficult to find, need a motorbike and ask locals how to get there.
- Eat at roch cuisine, small eatery in San Juan on the roadside by the beach. Really good cheap food and perfect for sunset.

Secret beach, Siquijor island 

Bohol island: 2nights
How to get there: Take a ferry from Larena in Siquijor to Tagbilaren, Bohol island.
From the Ferry in Bohol, take a tricycle to a jeepney and jeepney to Alona beach, Panglossian island. Most people stay at Alona beach. I was not that keen on Alona beach, it's quite touristy and accommodation is more expensive than other places in the Philippines.
- Stayed in henrys hostel and Alona hammock (don't recommend either)
- Could stay in Lamboc, jungle area on the mainland in Bohol, closer to chocolate hills and tarsier sanctuary. Nuts huts is supposed to be good.
To do:
- rent scooters and go to the tarsier sanctuary, chocolate hills and waterfalls. Really nice scenery! Chocolate hills are very touristy.

Chocolate hills, Bohol 

Camiguin island: 4 nights
Not backpackery at all. More Filipino tourists. Really like this island.
How to get there: Ferries only go a few times a week there and back so check the timetable first. The ferry takes about 3.5 hours from Jagna in Bohol.
- Stayed: Medano island resort, really good location in yumbing, family place, but has private rooms and dorms. Nice pool!
To do:
- rent scooters (can rent form Medano) and go to sunken cemetery, old church, soda springs, cold springs (we didn't go to cold springs), tuasan falls and katibawasan falls. Everything is 30PHP entry.
- Hike mount Hibok Hibok, difficult hike. Need to rent guide for 1200PHP and 200PHP fee. Start early (5.30am), takes about 7hrs. Can go to hot springs after.
- Pool day at Medano. Take boat to white beach. We thought we could go for sunset but we're told last boats come back at 5.30pm. However boats were coming back until 6pm. Go early in the morning or afternoon.
- Island called mantigue island for day trip, good snorkelling (we didn't go here).

Ferry from Camiguin island back to Cebu city (through Bohol) and fly back to Manila :(
(If you can maybe book flight directly back home to to your next destination from Cebu city)

Other places that were recommended but I didn't make it to:
Siargao - small surfing island! Supposed to be stunning. Takes an overnight ferry to get there from Cebu city.
Bicol - north of Manila. Can go whale shark diving here, hiking and surfing
Malapascua island - north of Manila. Really good diving.

#43 Bohol island, meeting the smallest primates in the world!

Bohol
During the time we travelled there was some unrest in Bohol. A couple of weeks before we were due in Bohol, there was a shoot out between a military group called ASG and the Philippines military. We had met some people along the way who has decided to change their plans and not go to Bohol. No travel alerts had been issued though so we decided we would go anyway and keep up to date with what was happening. We regretfully left Siquijor to go to Bohol! We were at the port in Larena, Siquijor at 10am for the 11am boat only to be told the 11am boat had been cancelled and the next boat was at 1pm which we waited for as patiently as we could. When we got into the port in Tagbilaran we took a tricycle to the jeepney station (20PHP) and a jeepney jam packed with as many people and children as would fit to Alona beach for 25PHP. You can take private tricycles all the way from the port in Tagilran to Alona beach but these can cost up to 500PHP.

We stayed at Alona beach, the main tourist destination on Panglao island. Panglao is joined to the main land via a bridge. Alona beach itself is quite touristy, a stark contrast to Siquijor. Bars and restaurants line the beachfront with men calling out as you walk by offering tours and motorbike rentals. I wasn't overly keen to be honest preferring a more quiet atmosphere. For our first night, Amy and I stayed in a basic family run hostel. Another thing that struck me was that the accommodation was more expensive at Alona beach compared to anywhere else we have stayed in the Philippines. We caught up with Faye who was staying five minutes away and went to the beach to watch the sunset, after we went for some extremely bad food that night at a Filipino fast food type restaurant called Binalot obviously complete with karaoke. As we had a jam packed day planned the next day we all had early nights.

We rented scooters early the next day from a place down by the beach for 350PHP per bike. I was still on a self induced driving ban after dislocating my shoulder falling off one a few weeks before so I went on the back of Faye's. Trusting my life in her hands.

Gassing up the scooters 

 

Driving through the man made forest

We set off and spent the day exploring Bohol stopping at the main attractions of the Tasier sanctuary (those little animals are too cute). The smallest primates and only local to some islands in the Philippines. The sanctuary thankfully works to preserve them. To get there we drive up into the jungle of Lamboc and through a 'man made' forest. On our way out of the sanctuary we asked two girls to take a photo of us. We chatted to them for s but and they told us they were from a region South called Mindanao and were on holidays with their family, what followed was bizarre but ended in them asking for our photo and what can only be described as a ten minute photo shoot with them and their extended Filipino family as the entrance to the tarsier sanctuary. Mad.

Adopted Filipino family posing  

Cute little tarsiers 

After our photo shoot we continued north to the famous, natural chocolate hills. Apparently dubbed the chocolate hills as in the dry months the grasss on them dries out and turns brown, looking like mounds of chocolate. It was 50PHP entrance. The scenery was beautiful but again it was quite busy and I wasn't blown away by the hills.

Chocolate hills with the storm brewing overhead 

After the chocolate hills we decided to head to a nearby village to get some lunch, five minutes into driving, the heavens opened! Leading us to shelter at a petrol station for an hour until the storm (and the terrifying thunder and lightening passed...I've never heard booming thunder like it before)! We went and had lunch in local eatery in a town called Batuan. We all shared plates of pork adobo, pork asado and you guessed it...pork with black bean sauce, rice and coconut milk vegetables. We finished it off with a coffee and a fresh pastry from the bakery next door. The whole meal cost less than $1 each! SE Asia we love you.  After lunch we headed back to Alona beach, stopping at Loboc river along the way to watch the floating restaurants sailing up and down the river blaring questionable country and eighties tunes. We drove back through the man made forest, rice fields, jungle and along the coast.

Amy and I moved to Faye's hostel for our last night as they had space. Working there were two, pretty camp young Filipino guys, they were so friendly and good craic. That night they cooked a big local 'family' dinner of (more) Pork adobo, BBQ fish, kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) and vegetables of bitter gourd.  cabbage, courgette and carrot. Those boys could cook! We enjoyed the meal with them, some of their Filipe friends, two German guys and six French.

The next day and with only a few days left of our trip we got up early to make our way to a lesser know island called Camiguin with Faye going on to another town on Cebu island.

Next stop: Camiguin island
Stayed: Henrys hostel $8 for dorm, Alona Hammocks $6 for dorm incl breakfast, Alona beach, Bohol
Food and drink: binalot for (bad) local Filipino food costing $1-2 per dish. Local eatery in Batuan - $1 each for pork, rice and coconut vegetables plus coffee and pastries. Home cooked dinner in the hostel of pork adobo, whole BBQ, kinilaw, stir fried veg, rice and melon for $4 each. Red horse beer!

#42 Siquijor island - the island of witchcraft

Siquijor island
We travelled from Dumaguete on Negros island to Siquijor or 'witch craft' island famous for its mythical history, shamman and potions! There are also beautiful waterfalls, beaches and scenery. Amy and I took the ferry straight from Dumaguete to Siquijor costing only 100PHP ($2) for the one hour and a half journey! Bargain.
We hadn't booked accommodation so when we got into the port of Siquijor we got some lunch in a local eatery and took a communal tricycle to San Juan where the majority of the accommodation is. The tricycle cost 25PHP each compared to a private (or special as they call it here) trip for 200PHP. We went to a hostel called lazy lizard which was recommended to us by another traveller we met along the way. It was off the beach and about 400m up a road into the jungle. Ody the girl who ran it instantly won us over, she was so friendly and welcoming. We were the only people staying there, she told us they had only been open one month. It was a really nice, quiet place with cute doggies, good wifi and an easy walk or scooter ride down to the main road. The easiest way exploring this island, like any other island here is on scooter (unfortunately for me). The roads here were pretty good and Ody said she could get us scooters for about 300PHP each for two days! I was obviously still nervous at the thought of driving again but being the easiest option we thought we would get them for the next day....eeekkk

After a hot day of travelling we were both dying for a swim so we hailed a tricycle to bring us to Paliton beach about three kilometres from San Juan town. The beach was really nice but the water was very shallow, still enough to swim in, there was a mix of tourists and locals. We had a much needed swim in the sea and chilled out for a few hours reading our books and avoiding lying under the coco count trees (apparently more people die from falling coconuts every year than they do from shark attacks)! Watch out for those coconuts. We decided to stay and watch the sunset. Two local guys came over and asked to join us, we got chatting and they told us their names y were Michael and Vincent. They were in a reggae band and played around the island most nights. We all shred a beer and some BBQ lechon (pork) with them. After the sun went down we finished off the beer and they told us they worked in a restaurant nearby. We didn't have any other 'dinner' plans so took their scooters back to Cecilias restaurant where we had dumpling adobo and peanut noodles! We played cards with the boys teaching us a new game called 'monkey monkey'. After a few more beers they told us there was a local fiesta happening in Paliton that night....why not! After a quick change at our hostel we went down to the fiesta which was basically a big rave (slightly more kid friendly rave) in a basketball court. It was packed with music blaring and strobe lights going. We all bought a bottle of rum and Coke from a tienda (shop) for a crazily $3! Rum- cheaper than water in the Philippines!
We met a lot of the boys friends and danced the night away...with a brief thunder storm and power cut halting the music and dancing for about half an hour in between.

Sunsets on Paliton beach 

Fiesta fun 

The next morning Amy and I woke up to Ody knocking on our door. Michael had come to take us around the island that day...we totally forgot he had offered the night before. At least I didn't have to risk my life driving a scooter again. With Vincent working, the three of us set off on Michaels tiny scooter. Firstly driving about an hour up into the jungle to a look out high on a mountain, from here we could see a 360 perspective of the island. It was a beautiful view. After we drive down the mountain to Cambughan waterfalls where we got a much needed swim in in the turquoise waters. It was already busy with some tourists and local families, swinging off the rope swings, jumping off the falls into the water and sitting around chatting in the shade.

Cambughan waterfalls 

We then went to my favourite spot from the whole trip so far.....the 'secret' beach that only a few locals (and now some tourists) know about. We drove down a small dirt track road and through local farms where we parked the scooter. We then walked through a forest for about twenty minutes until we could see the vivid blue sea through the trees. We scrambled down some very uneven concrete steps to find a deserted white sand beach lined with coconut trees and a small reed shack on the beach. It was so stunning and he definition of what paradise should look like. We had a swim and hung out on the beach. Later Alvin, one of the boys friends came down with three tourists he was showing around the island that day too and he and Michael gave us a performance with Alvin playing he ukulele and displaying so,e amazing beat boxing skills while Michael sang some classic reggae tunes. It was one of the those moments, sitting on that secluded beach with some amazing people where you just have to savour times like that. We got back to San Juan at about 6.30pm having driven all around the island and Michale dropped Amy and I off at a small roadside eatery at the side of the beach. We were starving by this stage having not eaten all day. Traditionally foods here are served as small plates and cost between 20-50PHP per plate. So we oredered a little bit of everything to try and had a feast while watching a truly amazing sunset.

Admiring the secret beach 

The next day we regretfully left Siquijor as we had arranged to meet our friend Faye on Bohol island. We said goodbye to Ody and took a tricycle from the main road to the ferry port to get a ferry at 11am (700PHP). Only to arrive at the port and be told there wasn't a ferry until one....travel life. We got some breakfast and iced coffees and hung out by the port until we left at one to make our way to yet another island. It's a hard life. Siquijor has definitely been my favourite island in the Philippines, it is a small island with fiestas most nights, the most beautiful beaches, not overly touristy with cheap, good food and a mystical witch craft history.

Feast and sunset at Roch 

Next Stop: Bohol island
Stayed: Lazy Lizard, dorm for 350PHP per night
Food and drink: dumpling adobo and Peanut noodles in Cecilias bar and guesthouse ($4), Rock cuisine feast of banana leaf salad, Thai green curry, fresh BBQ fish,
Peanut noodles, spaghetti, potato salad ($3) each. Tanduay rum and red horse beer. Lechon (BBQ pork).