#43 Bohol island, meeting the smallest primates in the world!

Bohol
During the time we travelled there was some unrest in Bohol. A couple of weeks before we were due in Bohol, there was a shoot out between a military group called ASG and the Philippines military. We had met some people along the way who has decided to change their plans and not go to Bohol. No travel alerts had been issued though so we decided we would go anyway and keep up to date with what was happening. We regretfully left Siquijor to go to Bohol! We were at the port in Larena, Siquijor at 10am for the 11am boat only to be told the 11am boat had been cancelled and the next boat was at 1pm which we waited for as patiently as we could. When we got into the port in Tagbilaran we took a tricycle to the jeepney station (20PHP) and a jeepney jam packed with as many people and children as would fit to Alona beach for 25PHP. You can take private tricycles all the way from the port in Tagilran to Alona beach but these can cost up to 500PHP.

We stayed at Alona beach, the main tourist destination on Panglao island. Panglao is joined to the main land via a bridge. Alona beach itself is quite touristy, a stark contrast to Siquijor. Bars and restaurants line the beachfront with men calling out as you walk by offering tours and motorbike rentals. I wasn't overly keen to be honest preferring a more quiet atmosphere. For our first night, Amy and I stayed in a basic family run hostel. Another thing that struck me was that the accommodation was more expensive at Alona beach compared to anywhere else we have stayed in the Philippines. We caught up with Faye who was staying five minutes away and went to the beach to watch the sunset, after we went for some extremely bad food that night at a Filipino fast food type restaurant called Binalot obviously complete with karaoke. As we had a jam packed day planned the next day we all had early nights.

We rented scooters early the next day from a place down by the beach for 350PHP per bike. I was still on a self induced driving ban after dislocating my shoulder falling off one a few weeks before so I went on the back of Faye's. Trusting my life in her hands.

Gassing up the scooters 

 

Driving through the man made forest

We set off and spent the day exploring Bohol stopping at the main attractions of the Tasier sanctuary (those little animals are too cute). The smallest primates and only local to some islands in the Philippines. The sanctuary thankfully works to preserve them. To get there we drive up into the jungle of Lamboc and through a 'man made' forest. On our way out of the sanctuary we asked two girls to take a photo of us. We chatted to them for s but and they told us they were from a region South called Mindanao and were on holidays with their family, what followed was bizarre but ended in them asking for our photo and what can only be described as a ten minute photo shoot with them and their extended Filipino family as the entrance to the tarsier sanctuary. Mad.

Adopted Filipino family posing  

Cute little tarsiers 

After our photo shoot we continued north to the famous, natural chocolate hills. Apparently dubbed the chocolate hills as in the dry months the grasss on them dries out and turns brown, looking like mounds of chocolate. It was 50PHP entrance. The scenery was beautiful but again it was quite busy and I wasn't blown away by the hills.

Chocolate hills with the storm brewing overhead 

After the chocolate hills we decided to head to a nearby village to get some lunch, five minutes into driving, the heavens opened! Leading us to shelter at a petrol station for an hour until the storm (and the terrifying thunder and lightening passed...I've never heard booming thunder like it before)! We went and had lunch in local eatery in a town called Batuan. We all shared plates of pork adobo, pork asado and you guessed it...pork with black bean sauce, rice and coconut milk vegetables. We finished it off with a coffee and a fresh pastry from the bakery next door. The whole meal cost less than $1 each! SE Asia we love you.  After lunch we headed back to Alona beach, stopping at Loboc river along the way to watch the floating restaurants sailing up and down the river blaring questionable country and eighties tunes. We drove back through the man made forest, rice fields, jungle and along the coast.

Amy and I moved to Faye's hostel for our last night as they had space. Working there were two, pretty camp young Filipino guys, they were so friendly and good craic. That night they cooked a big local 'family' dinner of (more) Pork adobo, BBQ fish, kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) and vegetables of bitter gourd.  cabbage, courgette and carrot. Those boys could cook! We enjoyed the meal with them, some of their Filipe friends, two German guys and six French.

The next day and with only a few days left of our trip we got up early to make our way to a lesser know island called Camiguin with Faye going on to another town on Cebu island.

Next stop: Camiguin island
Stayed: Henrys hostel $8 for dorm, Alona Hammocks $6 for dorm incl breakfast, Alona beach, Bohol
Food and drink: binalot for (bad) local Filipino food costing $1-2 per dish. Local eatery in Batuan - $1 each for pork, rice and coconut vegetables plus coffee and pastries. Home cooked dinner in the hostel of pork adobo, whole BBQ, kinilaw, stir fried veg, rice and melon for $4 each. Red horse beer!

#42 Siquijor island - the island of witchcraft

Siquijor island
We travelled from Dumaguete on Negros island to Siquijor or 'witch craft' island famous for its mythical history, shamman and potions! There are also beautiful waterfalls, beaches and scenery. Amy and I took the ferry straight from Dumaguete to Siquijor costing only 100PHP ($2) for the one hour and a half journey! Bargain.
We hadn't booked accommodation so when we got into the port of Siquijor we got some lunch in a local eatery and took a communal tricycle to San Juan where the majority of the accommodation is. The tricycle cost 25PHP each compared to a private (or special as they call it here) trip for 200PHP. We went to a hostel called lazy lizard which was recommended to us by another traveller we met along the way. It was off the beach and about 400m up a road into the jungle. Ody the girl who ran it instantly won us over, she was so friendly and welcoming. We were the only people staying there, she told us they had only been open one month. It was a really nice, quiet place with cute doggies, good wifi and an easy walk or scooter ride down to the main road. The easiest way exploring this island, like any other island here is on scooter (unfortunately for me). The roads here were pretty good and Ody said she could get us scooters for about 300PHP each for two days! I was obviously still nervous at the thought of driving again but being the easiest option we thought we would get them for the next day....eeekkk

After a hot day of travelling we were both dying for a swim so we hailed a tricycle to bring us to Paliton beach about three kilometres from San Juan town. The beach was really nice but the water was very shallow, still enough to swim in, there was a mix of tourists and locals. We had a much needed swim in the sea and chilled out for a few hours reading our books and avoiding lying under the coco count trees (apparently more people die from falling coconuts every year than they do from shark attacks)! Watch out for those coconuts. We decided to stay and watch the sunset. Two local guys came over and asked to join us, we got chatting and they told us their names y were Michael and Vincent. They were in a reggae band and played around the island most nights. We all shred a beer and some BBQ lechon (pork) with them. After the sun went down we finished off the beer and they told us they worked in a restaurant nearby. We didn't have any other 'dinner' plans so took their scooters back to Cecilias restaurant where we had dumpling adobo and peanut noodles! We played cards with the boys teaching us a new game called 'monkey monkey'. After a few more beers they told us there was a local fiesta happening in Paliton that night....why not! After a quick change at our hostel we went down to the fiesta which was basically a big rave (slightly more kid friendly rave) in a basketball court. It was packed with music blaring and strobe lights going. We all bought a bottle of rum and Coke from a tienda (shop) for a crazily $3! Rum- cheaper than water in the Philippines!
We met a lot of the boys friends and danced the night away...with a brief thunder storm and power cut halting the music and dancing for about half an hour in between.

Sunsets on Paliton beach 

Fiesta fun 

The next morning Amy and I woke up to Ody knocking on our door. Michael had come to take us around the island that day...we totally forgot he had offered the night before. At least I didn't have to risk my life driving a scooter again. With Vincent working, the three of us set off on Michaels tiny scooter. Firstly driving about an hour up into the jungle to a look out high on a mountain, from here we could see a 360 perspective of the island. It was a beautiful view. After we drive down the mountain to Cambughan waterfalls where we got a much needed swim in in the turquoise waters. It was already busy with some tourists and local families, swinging off the rope swings, jumping off the falls into the water and sitting around chatting in the shade.

Cambughan waterfalls 

We then went to my favourite spot from the whole trip so far.....the 'secret' beach that only a few locals (and now some tourists) know about. We drove down a small dirt track road and through local farms where we parked the scooter. We then walked through a forest for about twenty minutes until we could see the vivid blue sea through the trees. We scrambled down some very uneven concrete steps to find a deserted white sand beach lined with coconut trees and a small reed shack on the beach. It was so stunning and he definition of what paradise should look like. We had a swim and hung out on the beach. Later Alvin, one of the boys friends came down with three tourists he was showing around the island that day too and he and Michael gave us a performance with Alvin playing he ukulele and displaying so,e amazing beat boxing skills while Michael sang some classic reggae tunes. It was one of the those moments, sitting on that secluded beach with some amazing people where you just have to savour times like that. We got back to San Juan at about 6.30pm having driven all around the island and Michale dropped Amy and I off at a small roadside eatery at the side of the beach. We were starving by this stage having not eaten all day. Traditionally foods here are served as small plates and cost between 20-50PHP per plate. So we oredered a little bit of everything to try and had a feast while watching a truly amazing sunset.

Admiring the secret beach 

The next day we regretfully left Siquijor as we had arranged to meet our friend Faye on Bohol island. We said goodbye to Ody and took a tricycle from the main road to the ferry port to get a ferry at 11am (700PHP). Only to arrive at the port and be told there wasn't a ferry until one....travel life. We got some breakfast and iced coffees and hung out by the port until we left at one to make our way to yet another island. It's a hard life. Siquijor has definitely been my favourite island in the Philippines, it is a small island with fiestas most nights, the most beautiful beaches, not overly touristy with cheap, good food and a mystical witch craft history.

Feast and sunset at Roch 

Next Stop: Bohol island
Stayed: Lazy Lizard, dorm for 350PHP per night
Food and drink: dumpling adobo and Peanut noodles in Cecilias bar and guesthouse ($4), Rock cuisine feast of banana leaf salad, Thai green curry, fresh BBQ fish,
Peanut noodles, spaghetti, potato salad ($3) each. Tanduay rum and red horse beer. Lechon (BBQ pork).

#41 Negros island, snorkelling with turtles and hiking off road

Negros island
We left Maolboal after our bingo and karaoke night. Checking out of Emoks and saying goodbye to the French boys. We took a public bus from Maolboal to Bato for 77 Pesos (just over $1) that took about an hour and a half. From there we took a tricycle to the port in Bato with two Portuguese guys for (40PHP each) then a half hour boat to Sibukan (62PHP) and another cart to demaguete (50PHP each). We had planned to take a jeepney from the port but just missed it and were in no form to wait for another as there wasn't another boat due in and they only leave when they are full.

We stayed in Harolds mansion, a popular hostel in Dumaguete. Good thing we had actually booked this one ahead as they were fully booked when we got there. It was definitely one of the better places I have stayed with AC, clean female only dorm and really cool rooftop with pool table and cheap good food. Also a basic breakfast of coconut bread, coconut jam and sticky rice (carb and sugar overload).

The next day we did a snorkelling tour to Apo island with Harolds dive shop for 1200 pesos ($24). However on reflection I think it is better to go and stay on the island if you're only there to snorkel. You can get a small boat out to the island and there is some budget guesthouses on the island itself. We went to three different snorkelling spots around the island and saw lots of sea turtles, beautiful coral and fish. We were back in the comfort of air conditioned Harolds by 5pm.

Snorkelling with turtles 

Beautiful coral 

The next day we wanted to hike and I had read about a volcano Negro close by. We spoke to a girl who had gone for the day to twin lakes, a national park about thirty minutes outside of Dumaguete and recommended it. We thought it would be a good hike! We took a public bus for 16 pesos each and got off at a habal-halal stop (motorbike). From here it is a set price of 400PHP ($8) return to take you the 13km up to the park. They then wait for you and bring you back down. We managed to negotiate our driver down to 600 pesos for both us on one bike. Entry to the park was 100 pesos plus 32 for the bike entry.

Balancing on the lake 

We were disappointed when we got to the national park to be told the only trail took about thirty minutes to walk....we had been anticipating a 3-4 hour trek and had come prepared bear grylls style with hiking boots, bug spray and of course essential snacks! We were there very early and the park was quiet, we hiked from the lake Danao to a look out and then to the second lake....and that was it! In total it took about thirty minutes. However we met some younger Filipinos who were taking a very rough 'trail' (if you could even call it that) around the side of the lake through the jungle.  We decided to give it a go, five minutes in we were almost regretting our decision as we climbed over tree stumps, pulled back branches and clambered along the bank of the river with only some branches on the left to cling onto (difficult when your left arm is about as useful as a chocolate teapot. But we clambered up the trails and into a banana tree farm. After about an hour of clambering we decided to
turn back to the lake and hiked back out of the park. At least we got a bit of a trek! We got our habal-habal back down to the main road and took a bus back to town. The drive up and back from the park was beautiful as well, winding roads give great views of the coastline, jungles and through small villages. I'm still looking for that volcano to hike in the Philippines though!

Wandering through banana plantations 

Later that evening we had some really good food in the hostel and chatted with some of the others staying there over some red horse beers. The next morning Amy and I checked out of Harolds and took a ferry to the Witchcraft island taking about an hour and a half.

Next Stop: Siquijor island
Stayed: Harolds Mansion, $6 per night for dorm with AC and breakfast
Food and drink: chicken Mami (chicken noodle soup) in the mall for 50c. Vegetable Thai red curry with rice ($2) and fish adobo ($2.50) at Harolds mansion. Breakfast of coconut bread with (sickeningly) sweet coconut jam and avocado.

#40 Snorkelling, bingo and the most beautiful waterfalls in Maolboal

Cebu island

From Puerto princessa city we left Palawan and flew with Cebu Pacific to Cebu city. The airport in Puerto was pretty manic and small with no screens just signs being held up and announcements when each flight was boarding. When we got to Cebu airport we were met with an even more manic taxi queue that would take at least three hours (no one warned us about that)! We tried to order a grab taxi (same as uber) and finally managed to book one however they cancelled it last minute (we weren't sure why...maybe they found another fare). By this time we had been waiting for nearly two hours and were getting ready to rejoin the extremely long taxi queue when three French guys we had met in El Nido and who were also on our flight told us to get the bus (for only 0.50c) with them, we then got taxis for $2 to our hostel from there. The next morning we left Cebu city with the three French guys, taking a jeepney to the 'van' terminal. We paid $3 each for the three hour van journey to Maolboal. The journey was pretty uncomfortable even with AC as they packed the five of us and 13 Filipinos into the small van, all squashed and sharing seats. While we were waiting for the van we tried some 'iced candy' (basically condensed milk frozen into an ice lolly) and some sweet rice wrapped in a banana leaf. Everything is heavily sugared here. Even their bread had so much sugar in it. Apparently it is cheaper than flour so it is commonly used a bulking agent in their food.

The five of us checked into Emoks hostel in Maolboal town. Emoks is a small family run guesthouse with a small swimming pool, turtles, random dogs and beautiful little kitten we called Molly. The town itself is not touristy at all with most backpackers opting to stay at pagasama beach about three kilometres out of town. We took a cart straight to white beach about 5km out of town, Mohammed one of the French guys loves bargaining and makes friends with the locals wherever he goes. He quickly befriended the driver Dennis who lived in Maolboal and got his number to arrange canyoning the next day. We got to Whitebeach and were actually pretty disappointed. Every beach we had been to so far in the Philippines was pristine but white beach was covered in rubbish both on the beach and in the sea. Some tourists on the beach told us it wasn't like that the week before. We spent a few hours there sunbathing and watched the sunset before getting a cart back to Emoks. The grandmother in the guesthouse made us local fish, rice and egg that evening for dinner for less than $2 each and we spent the night drinking beer and playing cards.

Squeezing into Dennis tricycle 

Early the next morning our new driver Dennis came to pick us up to bring us to Kawasan falls for canyoning. I was apprehensive about the canyoning with my shoulder but after talking to the guides at Happy Wanderers they assured me I could go to and not do any of the big waterfall jumps. Mark Anthony, our tour guide was so funny and made sure I was careful. He also was happy to set

Mohammed up with one of his single friends living On another island. The kawasan waterfalls were truly stunning. I had seen pictures of them online and they even surpassed those. The turquoise  water cascaded down around the cliffs and ran through the beautiful jungle. It was quite busy when we were there but it still blew me away. I think it maybe one of the most beautiful places ive ever been to.

Kawasan falls 

Later that day we wandered down to the docks where the fish market was in Maolboal town. We walked past a large yellow shed with signs for bingo around it. We got chatting to the family there and laughing with them when they tried to offer us their puppies and a family members baby! One of the daughters was hilarious, her name was Vanessa and she was 28. We couldn't believe it when she told us she had already been married for ten years! She told us bingo was on that night and invited us to come, reassuring us they'd help us with the bingo calls! One of them, a tricycle driver, then brought us down the four km to Pagasama beach for the locals price of 10 pesos each. Foreigners usually get charged about 50 pesos each!

Traditional Filipino lunch of rice, squid, noodles, fried fish and sugary orange 

Pagasama beach is where most of the backpackers stay, as you drive down the street is lined with hostels, vegetarian restaurants and cafes. The beach itself was really disappointing but it is popular because of the snorkelling. As we sat at the beach we started chatting to an English guy from Nottingham, his name was Jolien. He told me he was an ex-army and had fought in Afghanistan and Iraq, after which he showed me his gunshot scars and lent us his snorkel. The snorkelling was very good, thousands of sardines circle around you only a few metres out from the shore.

Later that night the five of us and a girl, Megan from Canada we met in Emoks went for dinner and beer in Maolboal. After which we bought some rum and went to bingo. The bingo was so much fun. We arrived at about eight o'clock and the bingo was underway. All the locals and Vanessa and her family instantly made us feel welcome, showed us where to sit and slowed the bingo calling down for us. It was mostly in a mis of Spanish numbers and English to thankfully after my South America stint I could keep up with the numbers. I could believe it when I actually won two round of bingo aswell! (although Vanessa's sister did have to point it out to me as I was still grasping the different ways you could win). After about three hours of bingo and lots of rum we all went to karaoke...in true Filipino style and (regretfully) sung the night away to the Spice girls and Whitney Houston. Oh the shame!

Bingo fun 

Next stop: Dumaguete, Negros island
Stayed: Cebu guesthouse fuente, $8 each for a private room with AC. Emoks hostel, $6 each for family room with AC
Food and drink: traditional fish, rice and egg at Emoks hostel. Rum at bingo.

#39 The Philippines, recovering in the paradise of El Nido and Port Barton

El Nido
We arrived in the town of El Nido after a seven hour boat journey. I was surprised at how beautiful the little beach was that we docked at and how small it was. We had heard it was touristy but there were no big hotels and everywhere was seemingly quiet. The first night Amy and I stayed two kilometres outside of El Nido. As it was Holy Week a lot of guesthouses were booked up. Mina grande guesthouse was very small (only three rooms), on the beach and very quiet.

View from Mina grande 

The next day we moved to a hostel in El Nido town, a hostel called bamboo billabong which is owned by a pretty crazy Ozzie guy called Rick, in his fifties with dreads and nipple piercings. He had a strange sense of humour but was very adamant that beer needing to be cold and had a well stocked fridge full of ice cold beer. Shine, a younger Filipino lady, maybe around my age also worked there as well and she was probably  the most sarcastic person I have ever met. We had a good laugh with her, she was always complaining that we asked her too many questions. As I was pretty limited with movement and on heavy painkillers I resided to the beach for two days with Faye and some other friends while the others went on some island tours. The main beach in el nido during the day is surprisingly quiet with everyone leaving to explore the island or out on boat trips. The water was stunningly clear with just some local kids playing in the water and a few other tourists scattered along the beach.

Sunset of El Nido

El Nido was also decent enough for food, as it was a bit touristy it had plenty of restaurants and bars.p it overall the traditional Filipino is a bit tasteless. We discovered a little vegetarian/vegan stand down the road from the hostel which we all got food from the first night. After chatting to the guy who worked there we found out he used to be a sous chef in a vegetarian restaurant in the capital of Manila and he was hoping to extend his business, he also told us he hadn't had a day off in four years! We were surprised that he stayed open all Easter weekend. The burgers were amazing and we went back a few more times after that. Whilst in El Nido we also tried some of the street food including (disappointing) steamed buns and BBQ'd chorizo. Later in the day there would be loads of kids walking up and down the beach and the streets selling balot (the part developed duck embryo). I still have not been tempted to try this local delicacy.

El Nido beach 

On Dans birthday, he, Amy and Sally got back from their island hopping tour (all pretty hungover and tired after unlimited rum on their island. However we went out for dinner that evening in a local looking place that was heaving with people. Our other friends Jade and Jack that we had met in Manila also joined up. We bought some rum in the shop next door and shared some food including pancit bihon (noodles with lime and vegetables), spring rolls, sizzling pork with egg and vegetable curry (the portions were huge)! After dinner we went back to billabong for a few more drinks. I had also got a surprise birthday cake for Amy (belated) and Dan so we had birthday cake and rum before Amy, jade, jack and I ventured down to the beach and found a reggae bar called Pukka bar packed with locals and fellow backpackers where we danced the night away (got some free shots) and picked up some pretty tasty falafel on the sway home.

Port Barton
After good Friday we took a bus (private bus) to Port Barton, a small fishing village that seems very new to tourism. We had wanted to take the cheaper option of the public buses but Shine told us there weren't any as it was Easter weekend (I don't think this was true as we passed many busses on the way). The private bus cost about $12. Sally and Dan also came with Amy and I.

Port Barton sunset 

The bus only took about four hours. We found a little guesthouse a block from the beach and got two private rooms for 200 each a night ($4) in divinagracia. It was owned by a lovely local man (john), his wife Julie and cousin Laura. John was great for local information and also informed us that the village only has electricity from 5pm - 12am daily (something we had read about before). After we left our things in our rooms we wandered down the beach. There were various locals selling boat tours but never in a pushy manner. A local man called Jeremy stopped to talk to us asking us what our plans were for our time in Port Barton, we assumed he was selling a boat tour but chatted to him for a while. He told us where good places to eat, the good beaches and bars were. As we said goodbye and thanked him we realised he wasn't trying to sell anything and was just being friendly, a common trait of the lovely Filipino people. An hour before sunset and like typical backpackers, found a little reggae beach bar (recommended by Jeremy) with happy hour for a few drinks. Rum and mixers....a crazy $1 for two!! We watched the sunset enjoying our rums and a French couple Paulina and Max who we had met in El Nido came to join us. After indulging in the rums, the six of us went in search of some local food. We found a small, cheap restaurant called Alexis with local dishes. Amy and I shared traditional pork adobe (marinated pork in soy sauce and garlic served with rice) and spicy native vegetables. Each dish cost about $2!

The next day, Easter Sunday I was determined to try and do some exercise having had limited movements for the last few days due to the arm situation so I got up early before it got too hot and went for a run along the beach. It was a lovely morning with fishermen selling fish off their boats and a few people up for Sunday mass in the quiet village. After breakfast of avocado on crackers, pineapple and coffee, Amy and I decided to take a walk about 3km south of Port Barton to a beach called 'White Beach'. We wandered down port barton beach and surprisingly with the help of a random dog leading us along little paths and behind mangrove forests and a coconut farm we found white beach and begrudgingly paid 25PHP (50c) entrance through white beach resort to get to the beach (it's the principal)! Anyway it was definitely worth it, the beach was beautiful with...surprise surprise, pristine white sand and the characteristic turquoise clear sea, with coconut trees lining the sand and providing some much needed shade in the heat! We chilled out on the beach for a few hours having to take dips in the sea to cool down. We were joined that afternoon by an u welcome thunder storm causing the beach to abandoned. We took shelter until it passed and walked back into Port Barton along a windy dirt road, through the jungle and a small Village, admiring the countryside.

Later that night we all went for dinner and found a nice restaurant with a BBQ and fresh whole fish. You could choose your fish and they cooked it on the spot for you. I had a local fish called Lupa lupa with rice and eggplant salad for only $4. The fish was good, a white fish and a bit meatier than cod.

Amy and I took a bus from regretfully said goodbye to Port Barton to go to Puerto Princessa for a night before our flight to Cebu. We didn't really explore Puerto Princessa and instead took advantage of the air conditioned room and wifi which we had been without for a while. We DID however find the cheapest beer on my trip so far....a litre of red horse for 70PHP (about $1.50). Apparently the locals say it's called red horse beer because the next morning after drinking it you feel like you've been kicked by a horse! Our hostel 'your space' seemed to be located in the fast food district and we found it impossible to find apples (random craving) on the night we arrived. However after walking for an hour looking for somewhere for lunch the day we were leaving, we found an amazing vegetarian restaurant called Imas where we indulged in a Mexican salad and Thai tofu salad as well as a coco peanut shake (sooooo good) and a mango banana shake. After our good food fix we took a tricycle to the airport which cost about a dollar each as the airport is quite Central and small.

Next Stop: Cebu city, Cebu island
Stayed: Divinagracia in Port Barton, $4 each a night for private room.
Our space pensione, $5 for air conditioned dorm
Food/drink: Red horse, San Miguel beer. Tanduay rum (crazily cheap). Alexis local restaurant in Port Barton for adobo for $2. BBQ restaurant in Port Barton - local Lupa Lula BBQ fish with rice and eggplant salad - $4. Imas vegetarian restaurant in Puerto Princessa dishes from $2-4!

#38 A new continent and an unfortunate accident

I arrived in Manila, Philippines on 5th April after a very long journey! Leaving San Francisco at 5.40pm on 3rd April, after a 12hr flight and an extremely confusing time difference, I then had an 11hr overnight stopover in Teipei airport before a quick 2hr flight to Manila the next morning. I arrived in Manila at 11.40pm on 5th April! Thankfully, as airports go, Teipei is pretty good with excellent wifi, plenty of charging points and showers (it's the little things). I also met an English girl called Faye who had been on my flight from San Francisco and was also flying into Manila with similar plans as Amy and I.

We met Amy in Manila airport after she had flown from Singapore and got a taxi to Bahay  kube hostel. We were both totally disoriented and jet lagged but managed to spend the afternoon wandering around the streets with possibly every local we passed saying hello while we salivated and grimaced at some of the street food on offer. I was definitely looking forward to having a bit more spice in my food after a relatively bland diet in Latin America.

The lovely Filipino hostel owner was an amazing source of information about what to do around the country, he promised us an amazing sunset in Manila. So we took his advice and walked the three blocks, running across a dual carriageway to the promenade with the very polluted looking sea below. We waited and watched what was a pretty disappointing sunset.

Chinatown meal 

The next day after a very good sleep Amy and I decided to explore a bit of Manila. I was a bit dubious as Manila didn't have great reviews, many saying it was just another big, polluted city with not much to do...and after our day we also felt one day was enough! We walked from our hostel to Rizal park and visited the free anthropology museum which detailed the history and background of Philippines. After we walked across the pesig river to China town and wandered for ages looking for somewhere to have dumplings for lunch (serious dumpling cravings). We found a small restaurant and ordered a spicy beef laimon (noodle soup) to share...we both suffered with the spice much to the waiters amusement as well as our much anticipated steamed dumplings. After we opted not to walk the seven kilometres back but to take one of the famous 'jeepneys', the equivalent of dublin bus in Manila but a lot less formal.

Famous jeepney 

After nearly two days in Manila we took a Go2 ferry on to Coron one of the islands. I was apprehensive about the boat as I had had a traumatic slave ship Loke experience years ago in Thailand. However when Myself, amy, Faye and a couple Jade and Jack we had met in our hostel arrived at the ferry terminal it looked pretty well organised (for SE Asia standards). There were lines and lines of bunks with screaming children, boxes, crib, suitcases and furniture. We found our bunks and retreated upstairs to the deck where there was a bar and restaurant. We set up camp where we stayed for the whole day (and night) as much to our surprise and amusement there was karaoke from lunch time on into the night disco! We had a few drinks, made friends with some local Filipinos and watched everyone else partake in the karaoke. We managed to find our way back to our own bunks despite the deck being a maze of them and got a few hours sleep before the ferry got into to Coron port at a crazy time of 4.00am (13 hours afer we departed Manila).

Amy and I checked into Coron guapos guesthouse in Coron town and later that day met up with the others to explore the town. We stumbled across a small market where I had a huge portion of rice noodles with plenty of vegetables, pork and shrimp for less than $2!

Later that evening Amy, Faye and I hiked up the 728 steps to mount Tapyas for sunset, sweating by the time we got to the top, it was the most beautiful sunset I've ever seen! We sat there for two hours just looking over the Pacific Ocean scattered with tiny islands, the sunsetting behind it changing its vivid colours every few minutes.

The next day we booked onto to do an boat tour. We ended up meeting an English couple Sally and Dan, another English guy called Kit and a Danish guy Michael so the seven of us booked boat 'Tour B' for the next day. We paid about $20 for the day.  The day was spent visiting six different spots snorkelling and swimming. The first a beautiful turquoise blue lagoon about twenty minutes out to sea, we then went snorkelling in the 'coral garden', had lunch of squid, chicken, rice, vegetables and fresh fruit under a shack on a tiny beach on an island. After lunch we went to a Skelton shipwreck, one of the many shipwrecks left over from WWII and then onto an amazing lake enclosed in the cliff like structures, the water is mostly fresh water however after about 12m down the water turns into salt water! It was so peaceful and the water beautifully clear.

Enjoying the beautiful clear water 

The next day, Amy, Faye, Kit, Michael and I decided to rent scooters to drive around the island and visit a waterfall and beaches. It was my first time on a scooter but thought I'd manage it especially as the others had driven them before. We had been driving along for about half an hour when I approached a corner and realised I was going far too fast, next thing I knew I was lying face down on the road with a local man helping me up. Luckily Kit and Michael were behind me with the two girls in front. I stood up in agony, looked down at my shoulder and quickly realised it was pretty badly dislocated, my head and knees were bleeding. A local woman and her son ran over and Michael got my bike off the road. The local woman was trying to dab cotton wool on my cuts and after about ten minutes an ambulance came (a small mini van) and brought me the ten minutes down the road to the hospital with Michael following behind my on his bike. Kit went on to try and catch up with the girls to let them know what had happened.


By the stage I got to the hospital I was in the most pain I think I have ever felt in my life and knew I just needed my shoulder put back into place. I needed an X-ray first and after that they gave me some pain relief and a lovely doctor finally put my shoulder back in place (needless to say with some screaming and swearing from me)! The whole process of two X-rays, pain relief and a doctor seeing to my shoulder took only about an hour!! Very impressive. This also included the fact that every time I needed some medication, x-ray film and syringes the nurse gave Michael a list of what I needed and he had to run across the road to the pharmacy to buy it as they didn't stock anything in the hospital. I think he ended up having to run across the road about four times. After the traumatic experience (for both of us) and no sign of Kit and the girls, we went and had a few beers with Kit later joining us later not having been able to find the girls. Later that evening the girls appeared back feeling very bad for not having realised what had happened, however I think having a calm Danish man with me was better than the two girls (they also agreed)!

Recovering after the accident 

The next morning in my blue sling and leg full of cuts, Kit, Sally, Dan, Faye, Amy and I set off for El Nido on an 8 hour ferry journey.

Stayed: BohayKobu hostel in Manila $6 per night for dorm. Coron Guapos guesthouse in Coron, $10 per night for a private room.
Food and drinks: fresh mangoes (so fresh you can peel them yourself), noodles for $2 from the market in Coron. Spicy beef laimon and steamed dumplings from China town in Manila ($2 each for a beef laimon and dumplings). Master siomai - 4 dumplings for $0.70.
Street food in Coron - skewered BBQ chicken intestine, marinated pork - 10PHP per skewer (about 20c).

#37 Not being a backpacker in San Francisco

After sadly leaving Lima and South America I set off to Lima airport for my next adventure as such. A flight from Lima to Florida (a brief two hour stopover) and then onto San Francisco for five days on my way to South East Asia. I had always wanted to come to San Francisco and had an even better reason to go as my Aunty and Uncle have lived there since they were in their twenties..so what better time to go than the present! With two tour guides and a free place to stay at my disposal, I left the itinerary up to Harvey and Lynda, who are definitely not the typical retired aunty and uncle who like strolls around the block, bingo and a quiet life. They are great fun who love hiking, good food, parties and my uncles main passion and first love being Spurs which he dedicates a lot of his time to (having set up the official San Francisco supporters club about twelve years ago). Anyway this is what I got up to over the five days in the friendly, sunny and interesting city.

Day 1:
After a long flight from Peru:
Tour around their neighbourhood of Noe Valley
Walked up Height street, the official hipster neighbourhood which is full of cafes, weed, Tibetan gift shops, vintage clothes and smoke shops. Also an amazing record shop called Amoeba music full of vinyls
Walked into golden gate park at the end of Height street
Chinese lunch at Alice's in Noe Valley
Drinks in Danny Coyles Irish bar where I of course met fellow Irish friends

Golden Gate Bridge view from Twin peaks

Day 2:
Got up early and drove up to Twin Peaks for views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco city.
Drove to the small town of Fairfax and had Italian coffee and the best biscotti I think I've ever had.
We met up with my aunty and uncles very interesting (hilarious) Armenian friend George and went for a hike around the lakes in National park Mount Tam. We saw the massive red wood trees and I almost had a heart attack when a snake (a very small snake) crossed our path.
After the hike we went for Thai food in Fairfax and I had a very tasty red curry (the first curry I have had in months).
That evening we went to another Irish bar in Noe Valley called The Dubliner and I met a college friend of my mums who now lives in San Francisco
We went and had steak and wine in the Savoy Restaurant in Noe Valley

Beautiful Mount Tam 

Day 3
Got up at 6am to go and watch Spurs Vs Burnley premier league match with my uncle in Danny Coyles for a 7am kick off! I even wore a San Francisco official Spurs supporters t-shirt (the first and probably last time). The pub was packed with my uncles friends and fellow Spurs supporters, it was a great atmosphere. Luckily Spurs were victorious!

Post match victory 

 

Later that morning we went to Ocean Beach and had a six mile run in the sunshine along the beach.
After we went to the Royal Legion museum set up on a hill overlooking the city. There  was a Monet exhibition on and as my aunty was a member we got free entry.
After the museum we got the bus downtown and had ice cream in a place called 'Over the moon'.
We walked down through downtown to the very touristy (and extremely busy) Fishermans wharf where the famous Alcatraz ferries go from as well as all the other public and tourist ferries and tours.
We walked to the end of Fishermans wharf where there are numerous souvenir shops, crab and chowder restaurants and  the famous Boudins sourdough bread restaurant.

Day 4
In the morning we drove thirty minutes out to the harbour of Half moon bay.
We had brunch at Ketch Joanne, which is famous for its crab (and evidently it's bloody Mary's).
We then walked from the harbour over a mountain to the other side along the sea.
We spotted hundreds of seals lying on the rocks below the cliffs and my uncle also said it was common to spit whales migrating along the coast as well.
After the walk we drove ten minutes down the road to a rock and roll bar called Nicks and had a couple of drinks (walking, drinking and eating was the theme of this trip)!
Later that day we went for early dinner back in Alice's Chinese restaurant in Noe Valley for my last supper.

Harvey and I at the beach 

Alcatraz 

Day 5:
My last day!
I walked down to the famous gay area of Castro (the first gay area in the US) full of bars, cafes, restaurants and quirky shops.
Rode the vintage cable car from Castro to downtown and had a browse around the shops (stocking up essentials from Walgreens and forever 21)
Got the cable car down to Fishermans wharf and walked around the pier and docks. It was much quieter as it was a Monday. Looked out at Alcatraz, angel island and the Golden Gate Bridge. I had hoped to get a small boat out around Alcatraz and angel island which costs only $15 or the normal ferries which cost about $15 return but unfortunately didn't leave myself with enough time (next time I'm in San Francisco its on my list).
Took the cable car back to Castro and had an avocado, salad and cheese bagel and coffee in Posh Bagel before getting back to Noe Valley to make my way to the airport!

Next Stop: Manila, Philippines (with an overnight stopover in Taipei on the way)
Stayed: with family in Noe Valley
Bars: Danny Coyles, The Dubliner, Nicks
Restaurants: Alice's Chinese Noe Valley, Savoy for steak in Noe Valley, Posh Bagel Castro, Thai food in Fairfax, Ketch Joanne's for crab brunch in Half moon bay, Over the Moon for ice cream downtown