#19 Country number 10 and my three month travel anniversary

Quito, Ecuador
I flew from Bogota to Quito with Kirsty.. we met up in Bogota airport. After not seeing her for nearly a week while I was in Medellin and she was on her death bed (slightly dramatic), it was really good to see her again. And even though she was riddled with dengue/something undiagnosed she still managed to race me down the escalators in the airport........a true friend!!

We arrived in Quito quite late and took a taxi to The Secret Garden hostel. Quito is one of the highest capitals in the world and after carrying our backpacks up the FIVE flights of stairs to the Secret Garden rooftop reception I felt extremely unfit. However only when I realised that at 2827 metres up...it was pretty high so maybe this had something to do with puffing and panting and not totally down to my lack of fitness. The views however from the rooftop the next morning made it all worth it! They were stunning and really showed how big Quito really is.

Santa with Quito as his backdrop from the terrace of the Secret Garden 

Kirsty still wasn't feeling great so the next day I went on a free walking tour with carpe diem tours (conveniently located downstairs in the hostel). I went with a couple of girls I met in the hostel. Our guide was local to Quito and showed us around the bull fighting ring, the old town including the basilica and many decadent churches, the presidents residence, the many squares and small streets with local ice cream, sweet and artisan shops. The steep streets of Quito were tough to walk around and you really got out of breath quite quickly, however I guess this can be helped by trialling out the many coca sweets and teas on offer.

He talked to us a lot about the local food and snacks. Ecuador looks to actually have some decent food and branches out from just rice, beans and chicken! We tried some 'Quimbolitas', traditional sweet bread with raisins wrapped in achira leaves costing about $1 each, 'Humitas', a corn bread wrapped in a corn husk and boiled, they're usually savoury and salted. There were also street vendors selling Quail eggs boiled and salted. You could buy four for 50c, such a bargain considering how expensive  they can be in Ireland!

Quitos basilica 

Stained glass windows of the basilica 

After the walking tour most of us went for lunch in the mercado around the corner from our hostel in the old town and ordered what was recommended by our tour guide. In 'don jimmys' in the market they serve 'Corvina' (deep fried seabsss in light batter) with roast potatoes, ceviche, popcorn and spicy sauce for $5. It is a huge portion so one between two is plenty. It was probably the best meal I had had out for such a decent price in ages. There are also numerous stands of women offering fresh juices or shakes made with a range of fruits, coconut water and without sugar (without sugar being a rare option in South America) for $1.

Corvina from the market for $5 for two

 Later that day we took a public bus from the old town to the Ecuator or 'Mitad el Mundo'. Although the 30 foot monument was once thought to mark the equatorial line its now known that it is actually 240 metres north. Well done guys! However it still makes for a pretty good photo op. The trip took us 1.5hrs there and back (OK fine, maybe a little bit longer because me may have got the wrong bus back to Quito)....but we made it back at least, although we're pretty cold/hungry by the time we made it back.

Mitad el Mumdo 

We also ventured up the massive Basilica in Quito. We were warned by our walking tour guide that it was not for those who are scared of heights so one afternoon an English girl called Hazel and I paid the $2 up to the top, and scaled up the dodgy ladders to the very top bell tower for fantastic views (and more panting due to the high altitude). I had also been keen to visit the Famous indigenous Otovalo market outside of Quito to see all the local crafts and animal market. However after talking to other people around the hostel they advised that unless you are going on the main day (Saturday) it's not really worth the trip and you can see everything in the local artisan market in Quito. Seeing as Kirsty was still really not well and our other friend Eimear had arrived, Eimear and I decided to head to the local market for a browse. Adamant we weren't going to buy anything, after fifteen minutes we had already bought five scarves between us and it probably would have been more if we hadn't had an unfortunate call from Kirsty to inform us she was feeling even worse so we scooted back to the hostel.  Later that evening we got to experience the Ecuadorean healthcare system (which was pretty good actually)! And thankfully Kirsty is now back to her old self again. With Kirsty needing a few more days to recover and Eimear staying with her, I booked to go to a sister hostel of ours in the Andean mountains with the Cotopaxi volcano as its backdrop. I got a private shuttle from Secret Garden in Quito to Cotopaxi, taking about an hour and a half with six others.

Secret Garden, Cotopaxi.
When we arrived at Cotopaxi, it was lashing rain and cold but it still looked unreal. It is a 'mountain retreat'/hostel. The dorms all had log burners in the centre of each room. There were beautiful little puppies, comfy couches, open fires, homemade meals all included and unlimited coffee and homemade banana bread! The place was so homely. They also have a jacuzzi overlooking the Cotopaxi volcano and the option to stay in 'hobbit holes'.

The first afternoon we got there and after a delish homemade vegetable and quinoa soup our group were taken out on a waterfall hike by one of the volunteers. We geared up in wellies and waterproofs and the hike was only forty five minutes but definitely worth it. The rest of the evening was taken up by playing cards, a home cooked dinner and a few drinks. The second day we were up early and about fifteen of us set off to hike Pasachoa volcano. Thankfully it was a nicer day and was sunny when we set off on the 15km hike up to an altitude of 4200m starting at 3500m. The resident dogs came with as well as two volunteers from the hostel. It took us about five hours with 30mins at the top where we had tea, sandwiches and a beer! It was a really good hike and I was taken aback with the stunning landscape of Ecuador.

Impressive views from the top of Pasochoa 

When we got back had a chickpea curry lunch (nom nom) and as many as could fit piled into the jacuzzi for the afternoon before another home cooked dinner which was burger night, followed by more wine, cards and banana bread! The next morning about ten of us got up at 5.45am in the hopes of seeing a sunrise (I'm totally appreciating the importance of a good sunrise/sunset while travelling). After hearing from people who had left before us about the cloudy mornings during their stay, I wasn't sure if we'd get  to see it. Luckily, it was a crisp, clear morning and the sunrise was beautiful, showing off the snow capped Cotopaxi volcano as well as the surrounding mountains and landscape. We lay in the nets so perfectly placed wrapped up, drinking coffee with puppies running excitedly around. While a few trod off later that morning to do another hike, six of us took advantage of the beautiful day (used it as an excuse to be lazy) and lay in the nets for the morning In the sun reading. After all I had four days of hiking to look forward to of the Quilotoa Loop with Amy and Ryan, an Ozzie girl and American guy I had met at Cotopaxi. We got a bus to our next stop later that afternoon, full of good food, red wine and banana bread!

Feeling Christmassy in Cotopaxi 

Admiring the views of Cotopaxi volcano 

Enjoying the clea sunrise and cold morning 

Next Stop: Latacunga, Ecuador to hike the Quilotoa loop
Stayed: Secret Garden, Quito. $8 for dorm
Secret Garden, Cotopaxi, $88 for two nights including all meals, Pasochoa hike and transport from Quito to Cotopaxi.
Food/Drink: Corvina and fresh juice in the mercado in Quito, home cooked dinners for $4-5 in Secret Garden Quito and unreal hearty home cooking in Cotopaxi. Boxes of red wine (surprisingly good) in the hostels.