Leonardo, a friend from Lima whom I had met through the Superlearner project we had both been volunteering on decided to come with me for the few days (I was shocked that he had never been to Huaraz so I dragged him along). We decided not to book a bus and just go to the bus station that evening to see what deal we could get. Note: I would never navigate the public buses in the dark by myself to go and wander around a busy bus terminal full of locals...no other gringos in sight but as Leo was with me I felt that it was safe to do this especially with him being local to Lima. We got to the local bus terminal in the centre of town at about 7pm, a few hours before the last bus departed (the bus journey to Huaraz is about 8 hours so overnight buses are most common). The minute we walked into the terminal we were swamped by young locals trying to sell us tickets, shouting out the main tourist spots we MIGHT have been going to. Leo later said this never happened to him before (gringa disadvantage). We found a bus company that was offering a standard semi cama (bed) for 35 soles ($7). Which was not too much cheaper than if we had booked online (another gringa disadvantage). It was also the WORST bus I've been on in Peru. Our seats at the back of the bus on the second floor alternated between freezing cold or similar to a sauna (oh so stuffy) and probably even worse was that I was battling some form of tummy bug/flu symptoms. Being stuck at the back of a shitty bus full of Peruvians with one toilet downstairs that I didn't dare venture down led to a night of sweats, shivers, pain and minimal sleep. The bus also did not break tradition of all other buses in South America and ended up taking 11 hours instead of 8 and we also somehow managed to miss our stop for Huaraz (only just though thanks to a lovely woman sitting beside us reminding us we were supposed to get off). Overall.....not my best travel experience to date!
After a quick taxi ride back to Huaraz we got dropped off at the Airbnb we decided to book. It actually worked out a bit cheaper than a hostel and to be honest after living in a hostel for a month it was nice to just have some space and a really well kitted out kitchen that I didn't have to queue to use or sigh that someone had stolen half of my labelled avocado from the fridge (who does that)!?? Anyway the apartment was on the fourth floor of a large house with a huge terrace complete with hammocks overlooking the Cordillera Blanca mountains. Manuel, the host of the flat lived downstairs, had a small shop and was so friendly and timid with a bit so timid shaggy haired dog to guard the shop.
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| Views from our apartment |
The first day we got there was a complete write off for me as my undiagnosed illness took over and I slept/grimaced/visited the bathroom for the whole day (too much information sorry) while Leo went to the local market to get some supplies I'm (dry crackers for me). After managing some crackers that evening and feeling slightly better having slept for about 12 hours, Leo and I decided to look at what easy day hikes we could do the next day. We settled on an 'acclimatising' day hike to Laguna Churup which was also advised from blogs as being good preparations for Laguna 69 which is one of the most popular treks around Huaraz. The next morning we took our time and didn't get the 7am collectivo as advised by some blogs and instead found one in town at 9.00am (Leo) negotiating with the driver to take us to a nearby settlement called pitec for 10soles each ($3) taking about 50minutes. From here we walked about thirty minutes up a small dirt track and onto a trail (stopping to ponder whether we were actually going in the right direction) before finding a sign for Huascaran national park and the hundreds of steep steps up marking the start of the trek to Laguna Churup. The next hour and a half was a disaster for both us....this 'acclimatising' hike was not what it said on the tin (or in the blogs we had read). After only ten minutes walking up the steep steps the two of us were really struggling with the altitude and my legs felt like jelly anchored down with cement....my stomach was also still in knots. We both underestimated how much time we would need in Huaraz after coming from Limas sea level overnight. We made it about half way before sitting at a look out..totally out of breath, dull headaches plaguing and my legs on strike. We regretfully made the decision to turn back and instead walked another two hours down hill through small local villages, farms and dirt tracks to get another collectivo costing an impressive 1.50 soles (less than 50c) back to Huaraz feeling pretty exhausted and defeated.
The next morning we wandered down into town to go to the local market and see more of Huaraz. Little did we know that the day was called 'Agua de Guillera)' or in English the 'water war'! Apparently a yearly event for carnival where local communities essentially hit the town for a day long water fight. The first couple of hours were tame enough with a few groups of teenagers throwing water bombs and buckets of water at each other however later that day after spending a couple of hours in the local market having a fresh juice (hiding out) we quickly realised that this war was getting very serious, hundreds of teenagers flooded the streets later with adults, grandparents and even small children on rooftops throwing water on anyone that walked past with some even throwing paint, running in the middle of the roads and in front of cars and tuk tuks. Every street we turned onto was full with more groups of soaking youths with buckets in hand. We decided to flee back to the apartment to hide out for a few hours how ever on the way back a kid decided to throw a bucket of water over the back of me. It was getting out of control we ended up being under house arrest for the afternoon until hunger took over and we ventured out using the local police and security guards as shields to get to a local cafe for a menu Del dia and then ice cream after. Later that night after the water carnage had stopped there was a big stage in the square a few blocks from our apartment with local music, girls in traditional dress dancing marinara and lots of extremely drunk locals swaying around the streets. The music must have gone on until 4.30am...right about the time we had to get up to go to Laguna 69.
After a failed lake Churup visit I was slightly apprehensive about Laguna 69, a very popular day trip outside of Huaraz to a brightly turquoise coloured glacial lake in the Cordillera Blanca mountains, the hike reaches an altitude of 4600m.
But it was only a day hike and I decided not to let Laguna Churup deter me even though my stomach was still in a very unhappy state. We booked the day trip for 30 soles ($10) through one of the numerous tour companies in Huaraz.
At 5.30am the next morning we were picked up and joined 18 other sleepy backpackers on the bus where we had a three hour drive to a breakfast stop and a further five minutes to Huascaran national park where we paid 10 soles ($3) each entry. He drive into the national park was stunning with numerous vivid turquoise lakes with snow capped mountains surrounding the windy road into the park, it felt like a scene out of Jurassic park. Once the bus stopped our guide Edgar advised us to all set off and go at our own pace, he would meet us at the Laguna with coca tea for those who wanted/needed it and then we could make our way back to the bus in our own time. It was a beautifully sunny morning and we all set off at a decent pace. After about an hour in and we started to gain altitude we could both feel that dull ache in our heads and every few steps were a struggle. We took breaks every ten minutes and tried to drink plenty of water. It was reassuring that others in our group were also taking their time and we all ended up at the stunning turquoise Laguna 69 after about three hours of hiking. We sat and had lunch that we had brought with us while there were avalanches in the mountains above us and a freezing sleet scattering. Even though it was freezing, the lake was stunning and I can see why it is so popular. I had also heard that some people opt to have a quick dip in the glacial lake...no para mi gracias! Instead we took the obligatory awkward posing tourist pics, had some much needed coca tea enjoying the view before turning back for a much easier two hour trek back to the buses. Where three different people in the group experienced some vomiting and unfortunately Leo and I both got pretty horrendous altitude induced headaches so the rest of the evening we took it easy, drinking plenty of water and coca tea.
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| Huascaran national park |
On the last day it was beautifully sunny and hot. It was also Leo's birthday so we decided to treat ourselves to a 'nice' restaurant (actually it was a pretty normal restaurant and pretty cheap compared to Lima but fancy compared to the market and cafeterias we had been eating in in Huaraz) and still extremely cheap compared to home for a traditional Peruvian birthday lunch. We shared a grill (parilla) for two of antichuchos (marinated skewered cows hearts), chorizo, grilled chicken and skewered vegetables with salad and chips. I also indulged in the first glass of red wine I've had in at least a month! We also had a lemon cheesecake to share complete with candle for Leo's birthday. We spent the rest of the day wandering around Huaraz and generally not doing a whole lot until getting our overnight bus back to Lima at 10pm that night. Thankfully our lovely host Manuel from the air bnb was extremely flexible and allowed us to stay in the apartment until we had to leave for our bus.
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| La brass roja grill |
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| Huaraz churches |
Thankfully our bus on the way back was much more comfortable (we paid $14 for first class on the way back not keen to relive the horrendous bus experience on the way to Huaraz)! I arrived back to Dragonfly in Lima for another two nights before venturing south for my last few weeks in South America.
Next Stop: Lima for two days then Puno in Southern Peru
Stayed: Air BnB in Huaraz for $6 each over night
Food/Drink: bought meat and vegetables in the local market and cooked spaghetti bolognaise for $4 each. Menu Del Dia - soup of pasta, meat and vegetables, main of chicken, rice, potatoes and very minimal veg, juice for $2.50. Fresh juice in the market - $2. Traditional Peruvian meal in braso Roja - $8 each including a desert and wine. Caldo de gallina - traditional soup of spaghetti, chicken, vegetables and boiled egg (huge portion) - $2
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